Category Archives: Tutorials

Mattress Stitch Tutorial

After our comparison of seamed and seamless sweaters from a few weeks ago, I thought it might be nice to talk about the best methods of seaming a sweater.

The  mattress stitch is arguably the best way to seam handknit projects.  Whether we’re talking sweater pieces or blocks for an afghan, mattress stitch joins pieces simply and beautifully.

This tutorial is especially timely for those who’ve been participating in the Building Blocks and Building in Color groups.  I know several of the ladies in the Tuesday evening Open Knitting Group are doing one or both of those and several of them haven’t done mattress stitch before.  This tutorial is for you!

Shelly recently brought her Building Blocks pieces in to our Tuesday group to show off and get some help with putting everything together.

Mattress Stitch
Shelly putting together her Building Blocks afghan. Doesn’t it look good?

If you’ve never done mattress stitch before, take a deep breath and gather your supplies.  It’s really pretty easy, and I know you’ll be pleased with the results.

For our tutorial today I’ll be piecing a baby sweater I’m making for my new son.  It’s the Little Luxury Kimono.  This is knit from an Aran weight wool yarn that I had in my stash.  I’ve lost the ball band, so I can’t tell you what it is.  But, I’d recommend knitting it in something like Malabrigo Twist if you don’t mind handwashing or Berroco Vintage if you want something easier to care for.

How To Do the Mattress Stitch on a Side Seam

Sweater back and right front set up for mattress stitch.
Sweater back and right front.

 

1. Lay out the pieces you’ll be seaming together.  Cut a piece of yarn a little longer than the pieces you’ll be seaming.

Beginning the mattress stitch on the right front.
The bar between two columns of stitches.

 

2. On the right hand piece, find the bar between the two columns of stitches on the edge of the piece.  Pull the yarn through, leaving a six inch tail.

Beginning the mattress stitch on the back.
Yarn through the right hand piece, and finding the bar on the left hand piece.

 

3. Find the bar between the two edge columns on the left hand piece.  Pull the yarn through, loosely attaching the two pieces.

Loose mattress stitch.
Loose mattress stitch.

 

4. Continue in the same way, attaching each row and only pulling the pieces loosely together.

Mattress stitch pulled snug.
Mattress stitch pulled snug.

 

5. After you’ve sewn an inch or so, hold the tail of the yarn and pull the working yarn so that the two pieces come together side by side.  You want them to be snug, but not tight.  It should look seamless on the right side (there will be a visible seam on the wrong side).  Continue with the mattress stitch until you’ve seamed the two pieces together, pulling the yarn snug after each stitch.  If you accidentally pull it too tight and cause the work to pucker, just smooth it out along the seam until it lays flat and smooth.

Mattress stitch seam, right side.
Mattress stitch seam, right side.

 

Mattress stitch seam, wrong side.
Mattress stitch seam, wrong side.

How to do Mattress Stitch on a Shoulder Seam

You can do mattress stitch on two pieces of knitting vertically, as well as side by side.  This works well for shoulder seams or for two blocks stacked on top of each other, rather than next to each other.  It’s slightly different than the side by side mattress stitch and not quite as seamless, but still provides a nice seam.

Back and left front setting up for mattress stitch on shoulder seam.
Back and left front at the shoulder.

 

1. Lay out the pieces you’ll be seaming next to each other.  I like to lay the pieces out so I’ll be seaming from bottom to top rather than side to side.

When you seam pieces vertically, you seam the columns of stitches to each other, rather than the bars between columns.  So you’ll need to choose whether to choose the column oriented as a V or an A.  Make sure you choose the same column on each piece.

Finding A column for mattress stitch.
A column

 

Finding V column for mattress stitch.
V column

 

Starting mattress stitch on left front.

2. Choose your column on one piece.  I chose a V column.  Pull the yarn through.

Beginning mattress stitch on back.

3. Choose the corresponding column on the other piece. Pull the yarn through, pulling the two pieces snug.

Completed shoulder seam with mattress stitch, right side.
Completed shoulder seam with mattress stitch, right side.

 

Completed shoulder seam with mattress stitch, wrong side.
Completed shoulder seam with mattress stitch, wrong side.

 

There you have it!  Now, you can confidently seam your handknits together.

Have you tried the mattress stitch before?  Will this be your first time?  Let us know how it goes!

Learn to Crochet With This Free Tutorial

We have created a visual step by step guide to help you learn about the basics of crochet. Whether you’re new to stitching and would like to learn how to crochet or if you’re a knitter looking to diversify your skills today we’ll teach you how to get started crocheting!How to Crochet by Alpaca Direct

Make A Slip Knot

Before we begin we’ll need to start with a slip knot. Hold a loop of yarn in your right hand, with the yarns crossed. Pick up the strand that is still attached to the ball. This is underneath the cut end of the yarn and is called the tail. How to crochet by Alpaca DirectPinch the strand of yarn that’s still attached to your ball of yarn and pull through the loop on your right hand, holding the ends in your left hand. 
How to crochet by Alpaca DirectPlace this loop on your crochet hook, you’ve created a slip knot! Pull the ends of the yarn to tighten the knot on your crochet hook. Now we’re ready to crochet. 
How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Chain Stitch

Step 1: Bring the yarn over your crochet hook, making sure that the yarn is coming from behind the hook and towards you over the hook.

How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 2: Pull this loop through the stitch on your hook. You’ve chained one stitch! How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Continue to chain stitch until you have enough stitches for your pattern, or you’re happy with the width of your crochet piece.
How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

 

Single Crochet: First Row

Step 1: Skip the first stitch down from your hook, and insert your crochet hook into the second stitch from the hook, inserting through the center of the stitch. How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the hook, making sure that the yarn is coming from behind the hook and towards you.

How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 3: Pull this loop through your chain stitch, you’ll now have two stitches on your crochet hook. How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again, then pull the loop through both stitches on your hook. How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 5: You’ll be left with one stitch on your hook, you’ve just completed your first single crochet stitch! Insert your hook into the next stitch, and repeat from Step 2 until you’ve worked a row of single crochet into all of your chain stitches.

How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Single Crochet: Next Row

This is what your piece should look like after completing your first single crochet row.
How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 1: Turn your work, and chain 1 stitch by bringing the yarn over the hook, then pulling it through the stitch on your hook. This will give height to the edge of your work so that you’ll have straight edges and clean corners.
How to crochet by Alpaca Direct

Step 2: Insert your hook into the first stitch of the first single crochet row, going through the center so that you’ll have two strands over your hook. Single crochet as before, going back to Steps 2-5 of the Single Crochet First Row. How to crochet by Alpaca DirectAll consecutive rows are started like the this, and the single crochet is the same throughout. It’s important to remember that on the first row you skip the first chain stitch, and then on consecutive rows you chain 1 stitch at the beginning of each row.

To finish cut your yarn, and pull the stitch on your hook up until the cut end of the yarn comes out the other end of your work. How to crochet by Alpaca DirectDon’t forget… when learning a new skill it will take some practice. Soon you’ll be crocheting like a pro!  Have you tried crochet? We’d love to hear your thoughts on learning to crochet.

AD Sockalong: Adding Patterns to Your Socks!

We’ve really enjoyed seeing everyone’s progress on their socks so far. We can’t believe it, but some people have already finished both socks! It’s not too late to join us–you can participate in the Alpaca Direct Ravelry Group. We’re knitting the Universal Toe-Up Sock Pattern Formula by Amy Swenson.

Today’s post is about adding a stitch pattern to your socks. We love basic sock recipes like this one because they give the knitter room to be creative. Rib patterns are great for socks because they provide lots of stretch. Besides your classic rib patterns we have three other ribbing patterns in today’s blog post.

You’ll work your stitch pattern on the top of the foot (which means just half of your stitches), and then after turning the heel the pattern can be worked on the leg (all of the stitches). When adding patterns it’s important to make sure that the number of stitches on your sock is compatible with the number of stitches required for your pattern. For example, if you’re working a k2, p2, ribbing you’d want a number that’s divisible by 4 .

Example:
Total number of stitches: 64, 64/4=16 –perfect!
Total Number of stitches: 70, 70/4=17.5–this isn’t going to work, as you’d end with either 4 knits or 4 purls. At this point you have you can increase two more stitches, work a k1, p1 rib that would work with any even number of stitches, or find another stitch pattern that’s compatible with the number of stitches for your sock.

Alpaca Direct stitch patterns for socks

 

For sock knitting we’ve written the directions for all of the patterns to be knit in the round. Broken Rib (Even number of stitches)
Round 1: *K1, p1*
Round 2: Knit

Cable Rib (Multiples of 4) This isn’t a real cable, but a mock cable that doesn’t require a cable needle.
Rounds 1-3: *P2, k2*
Round 4: *P2, k2tog but leave on the needle; then insert right-hand needle between the 2 stitches just knit together and knit the 1st stitch again; then slip both stitches from the needle together*

Waving Rib (Multiples of 6)
Rounds 1-4: *K4, p2*
Rounds 5-8: *K1, p2, k3*

We’d love to see your sock progress! Share photos in the Alpaca Direct Ravelry group, or leave us a comment on this post!

short-row-toe

AD Sockalong: Working the Toe

Today is the official start of our first ever Knit-A-Long: the Alpaca Direct Sockalong! It’s not too late to join us! You can learn more about what a KAL is, how to participate, and our special yarn sales for the KAL here.

short-row-toe
We’ve heard from a few knitters in the Sockalong Thread on Ravelry that they are worried about the toe construction on the Universal Toe-Up Sock Formula so today we’ve taken some photos of a work in progress toe to show you just how easy it is!

The sock starts with a provisional cast on. Then short rows are worked to create one side of the toe. In this toe construction you actually knit back and forth, and then later join to knit in the round and work the foot of the sock.

DSC_0166Following the numbers according to your gauge and sock size as outlined in the pattern you’ll continue working short rows until your knitting is triangular in shape. It’ll start looking like the toe of a sock!

DSC_0171Once you’ve finished your first set of short rows you’ll start working the other side of the toe with double wrapped stitches.

DSC_0176You’ll keep double wrapping until you’ve completed the other side of the toe. At this point you’ll remove your provisional cast on and begin knitting in the round to work the foot of the sock.

DSC_0187

 

What are short rows?
A short row is just that–a row that’s short because not all of the stitches on the needle are worked. There are many different ways to work short rows, and the Wrap & Turn is a common technique. There is also the yarn over short row, make one short row, Japanese short rows, and German short rows.

Why the short row toe?
The short row toe is easier for some people who have never knit socks. You can also knit socks starting at the tip of the toe by casting on both the top and bottom of the toe at once using either Judy’s Magic Cast On or the Turkish Cast On, but these can be tricky the first time you do them.  It’s also a little awkward to work with so few stitches, fine yarn, and small needles. If you have knit socks before we encourage you to try the short row toe in this pattern anyways! It’s always great to learn new techniques and challenge yourself.

Can I work a different toe?
Of course! If you’d like to work a toe that begins at the tip of the toe you can cast on Ex2 stitches, with E stitches on one needle for the front and E stitches on another needle for the bottom, then increase until you have C stitches.

Alpaca Direct Sock Knitalong

Sock Knit-A-Long!

We’re excited to announce our first ever Alpaca Direct Knit-A-Long! We’ll be knitting the wonderful Universal Toe-Up Sock pattern by Amy Swenson, which is a free pattern from Knitty, Summer 2006. We’ve chosen this pattern because it is a great recipe for creating a well fitting sock for any size foot with any weight yarn and any size needle! So, join us for this adventure whether it’s your very first sock or your 407th sock we’re sure you’ll enjoy embarking on this adventure with us!

What’s a Knit-A-Long? 
It’s like an online knitting group! We’ll be helping each other as we work on our socks, share our projects and experience, and get to know each other! We’ll also be giving away prizes throughout the KAL, and there will be multiple chances to win yarn and needles!

How do I join? 
We’ll be posting blog posts here on the Alpaca Direct blog about our progress here at Alpaca Direct, answering questions and hosting chatter in the Alpaca Direct Ravelry group, and sharing photos on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram, and Twitter. You can share your photos with us by using #ADsockalong

Which yarn and needles should I choose?
You should choose needles that are appropriate for your chosen yarn. Since this pattern is a recipe style you can choose anything from a fingering weight sock yarn to a worsted weight yarn. If you’d like your socks to be machine washable make sure you choose a superwash yarn. We’re so excited about this KAL that we’re having a huge sale! Here’s a list of our featured sale yarns just for this KAL:

(Note -We originally intended to provide a coupon for just these yarns but decided instead to discount them right on the website so no coupon is needed!)

Cascade Heritage Sock–A great option if you’d like to make fingering weight socks! One skein is enough for most sizes.
Cascade Heritage 150–A sport weight superwash sock yarn with nylon that will ensure your socks will hold their shape and last for years!
Cascade 220 Superwash–With 77 colors we’re sure there’s one you’ll love! This worsted weight is a great option for a heavier sock.
Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock–A hand dyed yarn that’s available in both solid and variegated colorways this yarn is extremely soft and a joy to knit with.
Sweet Georgia Tough Love Sock–Another great hand dyed yarn for knitters who like colorful socks!

This pattern looks hard! Can I handle it? 
Yes! If this is your first pair of socks you might find it easier to work with a heavier weight yarn. We’ll be answering questions and helping each other in the Ravelry group, so we’re here to help if you get stuck! Join the fun and make a new group of online knitting friends!

Sounds great, sign me up! 
The KAL officially starts on Thursday, July 31 and runs through Aug 30. Now you can order your yarn and make your gauge swatch. Don’t forget to start a project page on Ravelry, and tell us about your yarn choice in the Ravelry group!

ADsockalong

AD heels

How to Choose Your Sock Heel

AD heels

When knitting socks there are a lot of options. You can work your socks on double points, magic loop, or two circulars. You can knit one at a time, two at a time, or two at a time with one nested inside the other. You can choose to knit toe up, top down, side to side, or from the heel out.

Today’s post is about the heel of your sock. This is a part of your sock that takes a lot of wear, and is critical in the comfort and the fit of your sock. To become a true sock expert we encourage you to try as many sock constructions as you can–and we’re here to help you review some of the options! All of the options we cover today were worked from the bottom up, as if you were working a toe-up sock. However, there are top-down equivalents for all of the techniques.

Afterthought Heel

afterthoughtThe afterthought heel allows you to knit the whole sock as a tube, then work the heel afterwards.
Pro: It makes knitting your sock super easy–whether you’re working from the toe or from the cuff  90% of your sock will just be knitting without any shaping.
Con: It’s not the most comfortable heel, and has a tendency to slip off the foot.
A great tutorial from The Yarn Harlot on the afterthought heel, and another one from Knitting Up A Storm.

Heel Flap

heelflap

A sock with a heel flap is the classic knit sock. You can work a slip stitch pattern on the flap to make it even more durable.
Pro: Fits well and it’s easy to customize and work a pattern on the heel.
Con: If you’re working with a self striping yarn the yarn will pool on the heel.
Here’s a great tutorial from Miriam Felton on creating a better fitting toe-up heel flap, and here’s one from Knit Better Socks on how to work a top-down heel flap.

Short Row Heel

short-row

The short row heel is a quick and easy heel that doesn’t require a gusset. That means it’ll probably be faster to knit. The fit is usually more comfortable than an afterthought heel.

Pro: It’s fast and fairly simple to work, there are many variations so you’re sure to find a technique that works for you.
Con: It tends to create holes in the heel, and is less sturdy than a heel flap.
Here’s a detailed tutorial on working a short row heel on a top-down sock from Laura Chau. Here’s a no wrap version of the short row heel from Happy Knits.

Fleegle’s Heel

fleegle

Fleegle’s heel is a combination of the short row heel and the traditional heel flap.
Pro: Fleegle’s heel is more subtle in look than the heel flap and provides a heel without holes.
Con: Following the directions is not for the beginner knitter, we recommend knitting a more traditional sock before trying Fleegle’s heel.

Fleegle’s guide to her toe-up no-flap, no-hassle heel, and here a guide to working the heel from the top-down by Knitters Brewing Co.

We’d love to hear about your favorite sock heel! Leave us a comment and tell which of these is your favorite, or if there’s another technique you prefer.

My own rainbow

Dyeing in the Kitchen

Koolaid and Easter Egg dye. Inexpensive, brightly colored…perfect for dyeing wool.

With the sun shining today, I decided to pull out the dye pots and have some fun.

2014-04-30 07.57.30

Here’s some of my stash that I thought might work.

I don’t pretend to be an expert in dyeing, I used Google liberally to look up instructions and directions. On the stove top, I dyed 12 ounces of Targhee roving with  “Ghoul Berry”(blackberry) Koolaid.

 

 

Dye pot on the stove
Dye pot on the stove

I decided not to pre soak it, but added it to the dye pot dry. I was hoping for a mottled look. It didn’t quite come out as I hoped, but I am hoping it will spin up nicely. I may also re-dye it, because a dye disaster is never the end. You can always dye it again!

Targhee roving, dyed with Koolaid, drying
Targhee roving, dyed with Koolaid, drying

I also had my roaster pan going, for painted yarns. I used Easter egg dye for these. After I mixed the dye, I put plastic wrap on the counter and laid out the pre-soaked roving and yarns.

2014-04-30 08.47.07
Grey wool/alpaca painted with purple egg dye.

After each one was painted, I secured the plastic.

2014-04-30 09.35.39
Handspun Targhee yarn, dyed with egg dye and koolaid

They steamed about 45 minutes in the roaster.

2014-04-30 10.30.15

I took them out and cooled them to room temperature before rinsing, spinning the water out, and hanging them to dry.

2014-04-30 10.30.08

I used the dip dye/jar method for this yarn, also with egg dye.

2014-04-30 09.17.42
Handspun Targhee, dyed with egg dye

I steamed it in a stock pot, on a rack. When the color was right, I sat them on the counter to cool to room temperature too.

After lots of rinsing and spinning out, I hung them to dry out side.

2014-04-30 11.26.48
Handspun yarns, dyed with koolaid and egg dye. Completely non-toxic and easy!
2014-04-30 10.29.51
Wool/alpaca roving painted with purple egg dye.

 

I also put some handspun grey yarn to soak and then put it in the crockpot with koolaid:

Soak yarn before dyeing, about 20 minutes.
Soak yarn before dyeing, about 20 minutes.

I placed the damp yarn in the crock pot and gently poured hot dye over it, making sure the fiber was completely covered.

Crockpot set on high.
Crockpot set on high.

Let it cook until the dye is exhausted, or you get the color you want.

Natural grey and brown wool, dyed with Blue Raspberry Lemonade Koolaid
Natural grey and brown wool, dyed with Blue Raspberry Lemonade Koolaid

I used the same technique for some Suri Locks. These I contained in an onion bag, but soaked and poured the same.

Suri alpaca locks, dyed with Lime Koolaid
Suri alpaca locks, dyed with Lime Koolaid
The dye studio
The dye studio

This was a great one day project that yielded some wonderful colorways.  Now on to making some knitted creations with my hand dyed yarns!

 

 

A Stretchy Sewn Bind-Off Tutorial

AD-stretchy-bind-offToday’s post is about a lesser known stretchy bind off. It’s a variation on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s sewn bind off, but stretchier! This bind off is great for toe up socks, and anywhere you’d like a nice stretchy edge. It’s also a near perfect match for the backwards loop cast on! We suggest trying this on your next cowl too, as you can have perfectly matching and stretchy edges on both your cast on and bind off edges.

This bind off can be difficult if worked over really large numbers of stitches, like on the bottom edge of a shawl. Because the yarn is cut and pulled through the stitches you need a tail that’s four times the length of your fabric where you are binding off, which can be quite large on the bottom edging of a shawl!

This bind off is, however, faster and easier than some of the knit alternatives, so we’d recommend trying it on smaller projects that have a moderate number of stitches that need to be bound off.

This bind off is great for any pattern you’re working. Our swatch here is knit in stockinette stitch, but this bind off works on all stitch patterns equally well.

Alpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Step 1: Measure out yarn to about 4 times the length of your fabric, then an extra 10-16″ for a tail, cut yarn and thread through a blunt tip tapestry needleAlpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Step 2: Insert  the tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch, pulling it off the needle.
Alpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into the next stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Alpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Step 3: Pull yarn through the two stitches, leaving a loop before the first stitch (the one that you just dropped off the knitting needle). DSC_0653

Step 4: With the yarn in front bring the tapestry needle through the loop, from front to back, making sure the loop is not twisted. Alpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Step 5: Pull yarn and tapestry needle until the loop is snug.  You’ve bound off one stitch!Alpaca Direct Stretchy Bind Off

Repeat Steps 1-5 until there’s one stitch left on the needle, and just slip that off the needle. It won’t unravel because you’ve already passed yarn through this stitch, since the sewn bind off pulls the yarn through each stitch twice, (once when you pull through and leave the stitch on the needle, and again when you thread the yarn through the stitch and pull it off the needle). The first and last stitch will only have the yarn passed through once, but that’s enough to make sure it won’t come unraveled. If you try this bind off we’d love to hear about it!

If you knit socks cuff down be sure to take a look at our Super Stretchy Picot Cast-On Tutorial!

Is there another technique that you’d like to see us write about on the blog? Leave a comment and let us know!  In the meantime, happy yarn shopping at Alpaca Direct!

 

Picot Edge Slouch Hat With Malabrigo Rios Yarn

20140227-120528.jpg

Hello fellow yarn lovers. Today I’m sharing with you my latest favorite hat with a free pattern Plymouth Yarn’s Royal Llama Silk Hat by Jan Wise.

It can also be found on Ravelry.

I knit my hat with one skein of Malabrigo Rios, approx. 200 yds, on size 6 & 8 16″ circulars, and size 8 dbl points at the end.

I made a couple of adjustments in the pattern.  First off, Round 5 she calls it the turning round. What she means is this is the round you will fold up to create that lovely picot edge. The pattern calls for you to keep a very long tail to use later to stitch the hem up to create this picot edge. I find it easier to follow the pattern to Round 9.   At Round 9, fold the beginning edge, picking up one edge stitch along with the stitch on your needle, knitting these two stitches together, repeating around the hat. No need for that long tail and more finish work at the end of your project!

20140227-121425.jpg

You can see in the pictures above that the picot edge is not there! But just fold the cast on edge up to meet the 9th round and knit 1 st from the edge and 1 st from the needle tog and you’re set!

20140227-121500.jpg

20140227-121527.jpg

20140227-121553.jpg

Voila!!!  A beautiful picot edge!

Secondly, the hat sizes are listed as 19.55 / 20 inches. This just creates all kinds of questions in my head. Suffice to say I have a 23″ head. The 20″ size is plenty big enough for my head and not in the least bit tight.

I hope you will give this hat a try. It is simple, very pretty, and adapted well to my Malabrigo Rios yarn :)

Happy Knitting!  Maria

super stretchy bindoff

Get Some Stretch With Our Super Stretchy Picot Cast On!

Today’s post is a wonderful cast on that looks similar to the Picot Cast on, but extremely stretchy! This cast on uses a double strand of yarn making it very sturdy too, and perfect for items that will get lots of wear. We love this cast on for socks and mittens, but you could use it on anything where you’d like a  beautiful and stretchy edging.

AD stretchy picot cast on
Stretchy picot cast on for socks and mittens by Alpaca Direct

Step 1: Measure out a tail that is twice the length you would need for a longtail cast on. Fold this in half and make a slip knot where the two strands come together. Be sure to leave a shot tail for weaving in later. AD stretchy picot cast on

Step 2: Place the slipknot on your needle. Hold the yarn in the slingshot position, with the single strand–the one connected to your ball of yarn–going over the index finger and the double strand tail around your thumb. Wrap the double strand counterclockwise twice around your thumb.

AD stretchy picot cast on
 

Step 3: Reach the needle behind the single strand of yarn (the one on your index finger), as if making a yarn over.

AD stretchy picot cast onStep 4: Insert the needle tip up under the two doubled tails on the thumb.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Step 5: Reach over the top of the single strand as you did in Step 3.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Step 6: Pull the loop through.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Step 7: Drop the earn from your thumb and pull on the ends so that stitches are snug on the needle.

AD stretchy picot cast on

You have just cast on 2 stitches! Repeat Steps 3-7.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Working the First Row
After completing your cast on you’ll notice that your first stitch (the slip knot) is a double strand. Depending on whether you need an even number of stitches or an odd number of stitches you’ll work this double stranded first stitch differently.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Purl all the stitches with bumps on them.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Knit all the stitches without bumps.

AD stretchy picot cast on

Alternate knit and purl stitches until you come to your last stitch.

AD stretchy picot cast on

If you need an odd number of stitches you’ll purl the two strands together.

AD stretchy picot cast on

If you need an even number of stitches you will p1, k1.

AD stretchy picot cast on

AD stretchy picot cast on

We hope you’ll give the Super Stretchy Picot Cast On a try! We’d love to hear how you’ve used it, and see your project photos, so please add your comments!

This cast on can also be used for a stretchy edging on stockinette and k2, p2 ribbing.